DEVELOPMENT AND CHARACTERIZATION OF OIL-IN-WATER PHOTOPROTECTIVE COSMETIC FORMULATIONS CONTAINING VERONICA (PLANTAGINACEAE) EXTRACTS
ALEXANDRA MIHAELA PAȘITONIU #, GEORGIANA NIȚULESCU *, CERASELA ELENA GÎRD, OANA KARAMPELAS #, GEORGE MIHAI NIȚULESCU, DUMITRU LUPULIASA, OCTAVIAN TUDOREL OLARU
”Carol Davila” University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Bucharest, Romania
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The present study aimed to develop and characterize cosmetic formulations containing selected Veronica L. (Plantaginaceae) extracts and to evaluate their physicochemical, rheological, occlusive, antioxidant, and in vitro photoprotective properties. Oilin-water emulsions were prepared using an optimized emulsifying system and supplemented with extracts obtained from three Veronica species using different extraction solvents, in the absence or presence of 5% ethylhexyl triazone and 10% ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. The formulations were evaluated for physicochemical characteristics, stability, apparent viscosity, spreadability, occlusive capacity, cupric reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC), and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF). All formulations exhibited satisfactory physicochemical stability, homogeneous appearance, and pH values suitable for topical application. The extracts influenced the rheological properties and occlusive capacity without compromising formulation stability or spreadability. Formulations containing UV filters maintained satisfactory in vitro SPF values, although no increase in spectrophotometrically determined SPF was observed after extract incorporation. UV-containing formulations exhibited significantly higher CUPRAC antioxidant activity. Hierarchical clustering confirmed distinct formulation profiles based on their physicochemical, photoprotective, and antioxidant characteristics, demonstrating the suitability of Veronica extracts for photoprotective cosmetic applications.
